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The D5 runs faster and is the choice of full-time sports and action pros, but it has slightly less resolution than the D In practice, D4 images are almost as good, but the D4 is too heavy and lacks the critical U1 and U2 modes on the D's top dial that I find so critical to my day-to-day use.

The D's 24 MP is more than twice as much as anyone needs for anything. I'd be happy with only 10 MP in full-frame if it had the great U1 and U2 instant recall modes of the D; utility is the difference between getting the picture and missing it; resolution today is so high it doesn't matter anymore, and some cameras like the D have such excessive marketing-driven resolution that the files bog everything down. Whenever anyone packs this much large-format image quality into such a small package, I'm all over it!

The D's 24MP is enough for astounding mural-sized images without size limits if your lenses and technique are good enough, and the D is small and compact. If you do, mural-sized prints look spectacular. Don't let the D's small size and light weight fool you: The D keeps cranking as fast as I ever need it to, and never, ever chokes on its 24 MP files, either. Ryan at Mathis Brothers furniture clearance center, 29 November With a built-in AF motor and an aperture feeler for manual-focus lenses, it works great with every Nikon auto- or manual-focus lens made since !

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In any other modes, like my favorite U1, U2 and P modes, it's not smart enough to revert to the A mode as are most other Nikon cameras. Clubhouse, 28 November Sure, they are reasonably placed if you're going to use the D in DX cropped mode, but that's silly, since you ought to use a D , which is simply a DX version of the D for half the price, if you're only shooting in DX.

In FX mode, which is the whole point of the D, all the AF sensors are congested towards the center of the frame. Nikon could have used only three sensors for about the same level of usefulness. I may be the only one on Earth who uses this feature in my other FX cameras, but especially for vertical shots, I love having my Function button set to let me crop off those unused ends as I shoot so I don't have to crop them later. So what?

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No one has used PC cords since wireless slaves were invented in the s. People trip over PC cords and they always pull-out anyway, and if they don't pull out, they smash your camera onto the floor when someone does trip on them. Again, no big deal. Personally, I use a cheap Nikon SB from the s in its IR trigger mode or the D's built-in flash at a lower-power manual setting to trigger a Wein slave to run my studio strobes , never a cord. As a consolidation, just flick the front dial when zoomed, and if there are faces in the picture, the D will flick among them instantly so you can check expressions and focus.

The D also lacks this, while the D has it. You could go straight to top speed with a non-dedicated flash in manual modes. When resolutions grew above about 10 MP, the electronic shutters went away, so we're back to being limited by the mechanical focal plane shutter. I certainly don't care, but for people still doing olde-style HDR on their computers, bracket sequences are three frames maximum. I don't use HDR; I simply pop up the flash for much better results in harsh light.

This means I have to make a lot more clicks to get to my settings; I set in full stops, not fractions for ISO. While insecure rich guys will always buy D4s and Ds just because they can even if they aren't going to use any of the features, today the D does everything I need it to. With 35mm SLRs, we paid more for the "pro" cameras like the Nikon F5 because they were built as tough as an axle so we could pound on them for years. Once purchased, a pro 35mm SLR was the top camera for about the next ten years, and with something like an F5, you can pound the heck out of it for a decade or more and it will just keep shooting.

With digital, most of us trash our DSLRs every few years long before they actually wear out. Durability isn't needed because technology renders our cameras obsolete long before they wear out. The D has a one-year unlimited mileage warranty. If you wear it out, Nikon will probably fix it for free. If you can kill it after a year, Nikon rarely charges more than a few hundred dollars to repair anything you might break, and most of the time, you're not going to have a problem.

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I shot the heck out of my far cheaper Nikon D40 for about three years as my main camera, and after over 50, shots, my Nikon D40 still works great today. Canary Palm with Fusarium, 27 November Upper right corner obviously not in focus. Nikon D Sensor Assembly. FX 24 x DX 16 x 24mm: Can't use the entire frame; crops-off Frame Rate and Buffer Size. Depending on card, to continuous shots in JPG or 16 in raw.

Artificial Horizon electronic level. AF fine-tuning, if you have slight errors with certain lenses. Like all DSLRs of , it is not yet a full-frame AF system; it only sees a bunch of sensors all pretty much in the middle of the frame. The N55's three AF sensors pretty much cover the same area. Notice that the AF areas don't cover as broad an area vertically or horizontally as do most other FX cameras:. All AF points.

In other words, all the sensors work with all lenses. Only if you're using a slow lens and a teleconverter never a great idea , the D's AF sensors may still work great, even better than older cameras. Flash Sync: Remote Release: Photo File Formats. NEF is in or bit with lossy or lossless compression.

Nikon D magnesium alloy top and bottom covers. Top and Bottom Covers: Magnesium alloy. The grip can take six AA cells instead. Same dorky MH charger, too. Nikon MH corded charger. Rated EN-EL15 battery.

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MH charger. Midnight between 07 and 08 October Promised and Shipped. If you're in the USA, you need to get a legitimate USA version, otherwise you'll have no warranty, no way to get the newest firmware updates, and won't be able to get your D repaired even if you're willing to pay for it yourself. Buying online from approved sources means you'll get the right thing, but if you gamble and buy at retail or elsewhere online, you might get a model not authorized for sale in the USA, and you won't know until you try to get new firmware or need to get it fixed!

Terms of use. Need to project an important business presentation, outfit a classroom, or take your show on the road? Check out the details on portable projectors as well as full-size models in our deep-dive reviews.

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PCMag has tested and reviewed projectors and computer-based display systems for decades. Our top picks are based on factors such as suitability of fit for various types of output data, images, movies, games , brightness, audio quality, connectivity options, and value. As senior analyst for printers, scanners, and displays, he has written and edited hundreds of reviews of projectors and related products, giving him wide insight into the market. The Epson PowerLite W Wireless WXGA 3LCD Projector provides a winning combination of good brightness and resolution, above-par data and video image quality, and a good set of wired and wireless connection choices in a slim and light frame.

Compare All Top Picks. That puts it just as far ahead of the competition as the previous-generation model. The EX's relatively low resolution limits its effective use to relatively small screens, and to presentations without very fine detail or small type. In our testing, it showed very good data image quality, and great video image quality for a data projector.

It delivers higher brightness and a longer lamp life than the Epson PowerLite W Multimedia Projector while retaining its stellar image quality, so it's our new Editors' choice ultra-light WXGA data projector. What's more, its data image quality is also superb. Add to that a robust sound system and a wide range of connection choices at a reasonable price, and it's our top projector pick for midsize rooms.

This compact and portable mini-projector is a good choice for businesspeople who need to give presentations while traveling. It is easy to set up and use, has multiple connection choices, and satisfactory data-image quality. Its Achilles' heel is its video, which is only watchable for short clips due to oversaturated colors and frequent rainbow artifacts. It has a built-in touchpad, the first I have seen on a projector. Its image quality, however, leaves a bit to be desired, with glaringly bright colors in video and some trouble displaying text.

It still offers a good value, though, for easy portable projection. The i is a unique and appealing entertainment projector, although its audio is surprisingly weak considering the wattage of its speakers, and the Editors' Choice LG Minibeam LED Projector PH surpasses it on video quality.

It includes road-warrior-friendly features like 4GB of internal memory and two ports for USB thumb drives for running presentations without lugging a computer with you. There are better choices than the INHD if your presentations include video and audio, but we've seen no others that combine p resolution and sharp text in such a featherweight frame. While the MP-CL1 distinguished itself by being one of the few projectors to incorporate a laser-based light engine, the MP-CD1 uses the time-honored digital light processing DLP technology developed by Texas Instruments decades ago, used by about half of the projectors we review.

Image quality is reasonably good for both video and data-heavy images, and the MP-CD1 is indeed hyper-portable, but it's a bit pricey for what it offers. Projectors have come a long way from the days when the most useful way to categorize them was by their weight class. Today, you can break them down into any number of more meaningful categories, including their intended use business presentations, home theater, or gameplay , their base technology LCD, DLP, or LCOS , and the throw distance how close to the screen you can place the projector.

Here are some questions to answer that will help you find a projector with the right features and performance for your needs. There are four basic kinds of images you can show on a projector: Any projector can show any kind of image, of course, but it's important to understand that a given projector might handle one kind of image well without necessarily doing a good job with the others. Naturally, you'll want a projector that does a good job with the kind of images you plan to show.

Most models are sold either as data or business projectors, or as home-theater, home-entertainment, or video projectors. In addition, a small but growing number are sold as models for gameplay. Data projectors will most likely do well with data images, such as PowerPoint presentations, spreadsheets, and PDF files, while home-theater projectors are best at handling full-motion video. Any projector that handles video well should also do a good job with photos, since photos have a lot in common with video, but without the added complication of movement, which opens the door to additional image artifacts.

Games require some of the capabilities you need for data images and some that you need for video images.

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If you want to use a projector with video games, and can't find a review or see a demo that specifically relates to image quality for games, look for a model that handles both video and data images well. Consider how portable the projector needs to be. You can find models with sizes and weights ranging from small and light enough to fit in a shirt pocket to large and massive enough to be suitable only for a permanent, perhaps mounted, installation. If you want a data projector to carry to business meetings for presentations, a model to take to a friend's house for a serious LAN party, or a home-theater projector you can stow away when you're not using it, then be sure to pick an appropriate size and weight.

The more you plan to carry it or move it around, the smaller and lighter you'll want the projector to be. Ideally, you should match the projector's native resolution the number of physical pixels in the projector's display to the resolution you expect to use most often, whether you're planning on connecting to a computer, video equipment, a game box, or some combination of the three. Projectors can scale images up or down to their native resolutions, but they lose image quality in the process.

If you plan to show data images, you should also consider how detailed the images will be. The more detailed the images, however, the higher resolution you'll want, and we are seeing a growing number of projectors with resolutions of p 1, by 1, or even higher. For video, p is the best choice, assuming you have a Blu-ray player, an upscaling DVD player, or another p device. If there's any chance you'll be watching video at lower resolutions, check out how well the projector handles those resolutions, too.

We are starting to see 4K projectors, with horizontal resolutions on the order of 4, pixels, but they're still very expensive, and as yet little content is available that can take advantage of their ultra-high resolution. For projecting video and games, you'll almost certainly want a projector capable of throwing an image in widescreen format. For data projectors, native widescreen resolutions such as WXGA 1, by pixels and even p have become common.

If you create your presentations on a widescreen notebook or a monitor, they may look better if you project them in the same format. There is no single best level for brightness, and brighter isn't always better. For a home-theater projector you plan to use in a dark room, for example, 1, to 1, lumens can easily give you a large, bright image, while 2, lumens may be so bright that it's hard on the eyes.

On the other hand, for a portable data projector you expect to use in a well-lit location, 2, to 3, lumens is the right range. And for large rooms, you may want something even brighter.

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The best level of brightness depends on the amount of ambient light, the size of the image, and even the material in the screen you're using. If you're setting up a projector for permanent installation, whether at home or in your office, your best bet is to buy from a knowledgeable source that can help you match the brightness to the lighting conditions and screen in the room. The perception of brightness is nonlinear, which means you need far more than twice as many lumens for a projector to appear twice as bright. Also, a projector's true brightness tends to be a little less than its rated brightness.

Contrast ratio is the ratio between the brightness of the brightest and darkest areas a projector can produce.

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I love the features. When clicking on a sunrise, the screen shows the horizonal lines up the contrast. There adjustments available for movement for even the more active objects of interest. The clarity for zoomed shots or wide landscapes is rema rkable. I got this one just before the 4th of July holiday. The result: Awesome pictures of BBQ and family throughout the day and sparkling photos on the water and of the fireworks on the lake.

Enthusiastic thumb-up! It has very sharp pictures. It is slim and light weight and easy to tuck away in your pocket. It has many options and has the option to edit pictures. It has a large view and great zoom options. Slightly difficult to learn how to use. It has to be used with a chip adapter. However the lip. Great for the money. Don't know about durability sense I haven't dropped it yet I have had time to play with this camera and it is awesome!!! It has more features than I realized. I didn't know it had movie with sound, which is a pleasant surprise. The instruction book isn't that helpful, but after experimenting with the menu, I finally figured it out.

It is easy to use, small which I like and takes wonderful pictures.